Friday, September 19, 2008

Dogs of Sayulita

Like we've said before, there are lots of dogs in Sayulita. Occasionally over the last couple weeks I've snapped off a few photos of the local population to share some of our canine friends with you.

After seeing all these mutts, one thing stands out.

No dog is better than this:

So much so, that I find myself looking at this page more and more. But really, we already have a dog. And sadly, Joya already has cats, so he is not a good fit there.

There does remain one other person in our travel party, and we think he needs to adopt this poor beach dog seeking out lasting companionship. Of course he won't, but if you think he should bring him home, feel free to lay on the guilt in the comments.

Flat Days

Sadly, not every day in Sayulita brings waves, and the past few have been exceptionally flat. Twice yesterday we went out, hoping against hope to catch a wave and both times we returned without a single ride. And it was worse than just sitting there waiting. A strong off shore wind made it difficult to enjoy our time out, constantly having to paddle through rough chop and fighting to keep your balance.

The day was quiet in other ways too. We noticed that most shops in town were closed, and although things have always been sleepy due to it being off-season, it was unusually so. We later found out why. A local husband and father was electrocuted the night before, dying before help could come. The entire town turned out for his funeral and procession, men carrying his casket around the town, once, twice, countless laps over the course of the afternoon. In tow were his friends and grieving family, the whole town really. Two traditional Mexican brass bands, with more passion than precision, played surprisingly upbeat polka beat songs. Although this is the second funeral we've seen pass by, this one had far more passion, it was clear this was a man who everybody not only knew, but liked in this tiny town.

As we sat watching them file towards Playa de Muertos we reflected on how funerals are such private affairs in the states. I'm sure people die in our neighborhoods every week as well, but we rarely find out, and even more rarely witness their funeral. Perhaps it's the small town that makes it different here, but I suspect it says more about the Mexican culture: of close knit communities and even closer knit families. That contrary to the stoic ideal of America, here passion, good and bad is more accepted, perhaps even encouraged. There is something special about not just witnessing but participating in the passing of a good neighbor or friend, something we might just have lost a bit in our busy high tech lives, a real connection.

Los Postres de Sayulita

It only took a week deprived of chocolate and dessert before I started earnestly seeking them out.  I started with packaged Oreos from the nearby Tienda.  Coming away completely unsatisfied, I started to hit the harder stuff with homemade chocolate cake with 3 types of milk from the bake sale type stand in the plaza.  Since soggy chocolate cake isn't quite my style, I was soon visiting the local ice cream stores.  There I found satisfaction in a double scoop sugar cone and "nieves" or ice cream bars lightly covered in chocolate with coconut.  And for a reason I cannot understand, the coconut here is addictive.  I will order something just to eat the Mexican coconut coating the treat.

Which leads to the famous, original Chocobanana.  Which, by the way, was a total let down.  The chocolate and coconut barely made this worth finishing... barely.  And then we discovered Robert's bakery.  Open only from 5 pm to 10 pm, with the menu changing every night, Robert is a fabulously flamboyant English speaker in this earthy Mexican town.  But it was here I was finally able to satisfy my discerning sweet tooth with giant  brownies, marble cake with chocolate frosting, and an almond praline cookie with the texture of a boiled cookie.  Needless to say, since the discovery of Robert's, I have been making a nightly walk by for that night's dessert and enough for tomorrow morning's breakfast.